Pictures: Lyle Such

Writing: Thu Buu

Camera: Canon 5D MkIV

Kepler Track Day 1

We chose to do the Kepler Track over the Milford Sound Track because it offers more expansive panoramic alpine views different from the Routeburn Track. The trailhead was easily accessible and within ten minute’s drive from the cabin. Once again, directed by a forecast of thunderstorms around noon, we began our hike hours before sunrise.

Even though we were on a schedule to get to the hut before noon, we’d given ourselves a good cushion allowing us to stop beside the lake to watch the sun make its debut. At first, the thought of swarms of sandflies at this transitioning hour was a deterrent, but because of the colder weather and rain the previous days, not too many were out biting. Lucky us.

About five miles in we came upon the first campground, and many campers were just starting to wake up. The forest floor was dominated by giant ferns. The trail was very well maintained and marked. Right after the campsites, the trail became steep, and we would continue to climb for the next five miles. Warm layers were quickly shed. Perhaps because the trees and plants remained constant, we didn’t stop much on the way up. To our surprise, we had cleared the forest and reached the top much quicker than anticipated. During our research, this was the section that we thought would have been most difficult and time consuming.

Without the trees to act as a shelter, we felt the full force of the wind on this exposed mountain top. Warm layers came back on, even gloves and beanies. We fell in love with the round clumps of tussock covering the ridgelines, its sunbleached hair whipping wildly in the wind. The view back past the lake and into town was not bad at all. Excitement stirred up within us, and we knew that we had made the right decision choosing Kepler Track over Milford Sound Track.

Luxmore Hut

Soon we were walking over boggy marshland on a well constructed wooden path low enough that it didn’t stand out or was a visual intrusion. We’ve noticed this on many of the tracks around New Zealand. Trails here are not only very well maintained, they are constructed with the natural landscape in mind. Also the hiker’s culture here has much more respect for nature and the common good. We rarely saw a piece of trash or graffiti along the way. Such a treat.

Fifteen minutes after settling in at the hut, the thunderstorm approached as promised. From the weather report given by the warden, the storm would continue through the night and into the morning. We decided on a late start the next morning. By the time we left, the rain had mostly subsided. It was good climbing weather with the wind at our backs. Just a little more sun would have been appreciated. We weren’t asking for too much.

We arrived early to the hut and were able to pick the bunk beds that gave us the most privacy.

Kepler Track Day 2

Mt. Luxmore

At the base of Mt. Luxmore, most everyone else had dropped their packs before attempting the scramble up to the top. We decided to carry them, giving us additional weight to help counter the forceful gusts of wind at the peak. And for me, it really did help to ground and stablize me...many times.

Limestone outcroppings like this offered perfect adventure shots as long as you’re not afraid of heights. This is one of the few pictures of all three of us together. Sinister clouds hovering over glossy waters. Rugged mountain ranges stretching in layers as far as the eye can see. We couldn’t have asked for a more descriptive backdrop of the fjordlands.

The shelter at the saddle. This time, we didn’t need to use it for protection against any storms. From here our descent was along an open ridge, where steps had been built at steep points. Most of this day’s hike was out in the open, way up high, with all-around views. We are so fortunate to have had this experience.

With a few more miles to go until we reached camp, we were back under the cover of the forest. The trees in this area were much more interesting. Their branches were more gnarled and twisted. Their trunks and limbs covered in subdued, multicolored moss.

We came across this rare gorgeous purple bulb that looked like a poisonous mushroom. Curiosity got the better of me, and instead of leaving it alone, I tried to gently lift the bulb to see what the underside looked like. How was I to know that it would completely fall off at the slightest touch? Maybe it was in its final stage anyways. We tried to look for another of its kind but without any luck. We did find other types of fungus, although not as unique as this pouch fungus.

Kepler Track Day 3

The third day of this trek was mostly flat with a few steep downhill sections, but it was rather long, close to 20 miles to get back to the carpark. Tramping through the woods we go again. And then out of nowhere, we found ourselves in an overgrown fern forest! Every inch of the forest floor aside from the trail was covered in fern. Each fern plant was so big and tall, they reached up to my shoulders! I was definitely feeling Hobbit-like.

The fern forest came at just the right time because the scenery was beginning to get monotonous with little variation in tree species, plants or animals. It was a welcome new sight. And then we spotted the baby fronds, and we were off looking for the most perfect fiddlehead in all the forest. We got so distracted going from fern bush to bush diligently searching that we must have covered only about 100 yards in 15 minutes. In the end, we found her, the most perfectly coiled young frond that ever lived. Isn’t she a beauty?

On the shore of Lake Manapouri, we saw a picnic bench and thought it would be a good spot for lunch. Only seconds after we laid down our packs, we were immediately attacked by vicious mosquitoes. Bad idea. Packs back on and off we go again. From here we still had over nine miles left to get back to the carpark, but the soles of our feet were beginning to feel raw and heavy. After crossing the bridge at Rainbow Reach, we decided this was a good ending point, after 35 miles in three days. A couple of day hikers drove Lyle to retrieve our car five miles down the road..