After another uninspiring day in Santiago, we hopped on a bus for an overnight ride to our next location, Pucon. Traveling by bus is a very common mode of transportation. The bus system is extensive and flexible. We saw buses stopping in the middle of the freeway to pick up or drop off passengers. The buses in Chile are clean, roomy and a less expensive way to travel.
Situated in the Lakes and Volcano Region, Pucon has some of the world’s best rapids and outdoor adventures. Some of our most anticipated and physically challenging activities were planned for this leg. We were to trek up the snow-capped volcano, Mt. Villarrica. At the summit, we could have looked straight down into the mouth of the volcano and see red lava bubbling and popping. After the five-hour long trek, we were to have been rewarded with the longest slide of our lives, a 45-minute ride on our bottoms down the icy slope of the volcano. However, our good luck streak with the weather ran out. The three days we were in Pucon, from a light drizzle to a violent thunderstorm, the rain just kept coming.
A little precipitation didn’t stop us from venturing out though. We went for a muddy hike surrounded by all shades of green in one of Chile’s many national forests
Later that day, we headed for the hot springs. Lounging in the hot springs while raindrops plopped on us made the whole experience more fun and comfortable. We didn’t have to get out of the pool as often to take a breather from the hot water.
From Pucon, we traveled by bus to our next destination, a little lake-front town named Puerto Varas. Our hotel sat right at the lake’s edge, and we were gifted with brilliant sunsets as the array of colors reflected off the water’s surface.
Once again the rain dampened our activities. Instead of biking and enjoying some water sports, we drove around Lake Llanquihue, taking in the beautiful open landscape. We stopped in Frutillar, a colonial town settled by many Germans. Frutillar still retains much of the German heritage as seen in its architecture and food. The whole time there, I kept my eyes open for an old wooden windmill. For some reason, I was just so sure we would find one. I made Lyle go on a couple of wild goose hunts for nothing. In the end, we found some windmills, but they were all made of metal.
Today was Lien’s last full day with us before flying back to the States. We woke up early and drove south, ferried across the strait onto Chiloe, an island that seems set back in time.
There’s a charm about this island that is hard to pinpoint. Perhaps it is the quiet, isolated farms dotted with sheep, goats, and wild bushes of deep yellow flowers, or the lonesome fishing boats whose paint has chipped off in so many places, evidence of their years of service out at sea. Perhaps it’s the lone bull at the top of the hill mooing so mournfully for the rest of the herd to follow. Or maybe it’s the rows of colorful honeybee boxes laid out under the sun, humming with the songs of the bees. Whatever it may be, this is a place of real enchantment.
On our journey around the coast, we were treated to an up close encounter with a local farmer’s flock of sheep and goats. Entering the field, we were clearly disturbing their lazy morning, and when we were perceived to be a threat, a faraway sheep called from another field and the flock followed, much to the farmer’s amusement!
We stopped in Ancud for lunch. We didn’t have any idea what we ordered, but when it came out, it was quite tasty. Different. It turned out to be abalone casserole.
Built in 1770 and fortified with cannons aimed at the port entrance, Fort San Antonio was Spain's last stronghold in Chile after the War of Independence. The Spanish flag last flew here on January 19, 1826, and just 6 days later, Peru's El Callao surrendered, ending Spanish rule in South America forever.
Our final stop on Chiloe was the breeding grounds of the Humboldt and Magellanic penguins. At this location, we were only allowed to circle the islands on boats. We were not allowed to dock and climb on the islands. This is the only place where both types of penguins cohabitate. The easiest and most distinctive way to tell these two types of penguins apart is by looking at the black bands across their chests. Humboldt penguins have only one dark band whereas Magellanic penguins sport two. The penguins were everywhere. Some had just waded out of the water onto the rocks, their black feathers gleaming in the sun. Even with such short legs, these penguins had no trouble climbing the cliffs. Others were sunbathing and twisting their flexible necks all the way down to their belly pruning themselves. They all seem busy but not in a real rush to do anything.
Besides penguins, we saw cormorants with orange legs and claws. Pelicans with long beaks and giant wingspans seem to enjoy the atmosphere here also. On a small rock, three baby sea otters nestled together, asleep in a bed of swaying seaweed. They were so cute!
