Pictures: Lyle Such
Cameras: Canon 5d MkIVi, Mavic Pro
Writing: Thu Buu
In order to experience the peace and tranquility upon the emerald waters of Vinh Ha Long, one must first survive its hectic port. Even a decade ago, the port at Ha Long Bay was already overrun with cacophonies of street vendors relentlessly hawking fake pearl jewelries and cheap souvenirs. The harbor was a congested mob of masts jutting from junks linked one against the other, bobbing up and down alongside floating trash that had been thrown overboard. Once aboard the boat, if the vessel was still sailing within Ha Long Bay, views in every direction were compromised, blocked by other boats sailing by.
These were the reasons we opted to customized our itinerary in Ha Long Bay. We went out of our way to avoid the crowd, the congestion, and the busy harbor by staying outside of the actual center. We circumvented Ha Long Bay and went straight to Monkey Island in Lan Ha Bay by way of Cat Ba island instead.
A little hike through thick tangled vines to the second highest peak on the island for an incredible panoramic view of the bay.
We were on Monkey Island so of course we had to go find the monkeys. First, we had to pay tribute to Face-Ripper Monkey, the Alpha Male, before wandering around to observe and take pictures in his territory. He was seriously missing a chunk of his face from a recent challenge by another male for control of troop. He came out victorious, but if I were a female monkey, I’d think twice about mating with him.
We had our own private gazebo on top of a rocky outcropping at the tip of the island to catch the setting sun.
The following morning, we boarded a private junk and cruised through Lan Ha Bay.
The bay is impressive and definitely lives up to its reputation as a natural wonder. There were so many islands each with a different shape and form. This upright rock is called “The Chopstick”. See how water is slowly eroding the bottom of the column? How many more years until it becomes “The Broken Chopstick”?
We had a fun day kayaking through arches, discovering hidden lakes, and paddling against strong currents in shallow waters in completely dark, low caves while ignoring warning signs that read, “No Entry. Dangerous”. We’re still alive. You just have to take those warning signs with a grain of salt and a knowledgeable guide.
This little fella was stuck among the shallow waters at a coral reef. Lyle and I used our paddles to push him, sometimes even rolling him, against the current and out into deeper waters. Once there, he started to pulsate all by himself. He’s the biggest jellyfish we both have ever seen, yet, he’s just an adolescent. I tried petting him. At first contact, I was taken aback because he didn’t feel smooth and silky like I assumed jellyfish would be. His outer skin was really thick, rough, and scratchy, sort of like sandpaper. Who’d have known? Always learning something new on each trip.
What’s a visit to Vinh Ha Long without the mandatory stop at the oyster farm and jewelry shop? I can say something not very nice that has the word “suckers” in it, but I won’t. Grant bought lovely necklaces for each of his two daughters. It took all of us and a couple of phone calls back to the state for Tuan to decided on which earrings Quy would prefer and would actually wear. What a great dad and husband, they are! So sweet.
Crevit had his first accident. Lyle tried to land him on the front of the junk while it was still in motion. Poor Crevit came crashing into the pilot’s window. He chipped almost all his propellers. At least Lyle had the foresight and brought along replacement propellers. Good as new!
That night, we sailed into Ha Long Bay and anchored there for the night. As the darkness fell, we began to count the boats hunkering down for the night around us. By morning, the count had gone up to 28 vessels within view. And this is only one of the three areas where boats are permitted to anchor overnight. Luckily, the government has put a limit on the number of different types of boats allowed in the bay at a time in order to prevent overcrowding, accidents, and for conservatory purposes. Our boat sailed south, back into Lan Ha Bay, while most of the others will continue to meander around Vinh Ha Long and eventually dock at its port. We traveled a little longer and a little farther for a much more worthwhile, scenic, and private experience.
On the second day in the bay, we kayaked to a little beach.
A lone fisherman in a small, secluded lake catches a small fish in his net.
Anh Vu, Grant, and Lyle decided to swim in the frigid water back to the boat. Then they had a Jumping-off-the-boat-like-crazy-drunken-tourists Contest. Lyle and Grant were spent after that escapade. Anh Vu, however, swam back to the beach to retrieve his kayak.
“Squiding” boats. We can’t really say squid fishing boats because, well, squids aren’t really fish. Anyways, these boats are rigged with rows and rows of bright lights. Ask almost anyone in our group because it seemed like everyone was awaken by these blinding lights in the middle of the night while we were on Monkey Island (except me, thanks to my Super Ear-warmer-turned-eye-mask). The poor squids don’t stand a chance.
We sailed passed a couple of small floating fishing villages. Some of the locals have never set foot on the mainland. They even have a floating schoolhouse. What surprised me was the number of dogs running around from one floating plank to another. I guess good watchdogs are needed.
