TMB Day 3-Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
Once again, we started at daybreak on Day 3, the skies glowing pink on the horizon. The first mile was easy and flat, walking along the river until we reached the Notre Dame de la Gorge. At a brisk pace, it was a good warm up to stretch the legs. We noticed the campgrounds beside the river with small sites and barely any privacy. Camping here did not look like a fun experience at all and reminded us of how lucky we are with the abundant camping grounds we have in the US.
As it was still too early, the church was not yet open, so after taking a few pictures, we left, headed across the bridge and were instantly met with the first incline of the day.
Not too far up, we were rewarded for our efforts. Fast-flowing water rushed through the narrow gorge winding its way down the mountain, carving its presence into the rocky sides of the gorge.
This was the first time we met and interacted with Susan and Lisa. For the next couple of days, we would cross paths with them off and on. They are from Seattle and were attempting to complete the whole circuit in 9 days.
Our first open view of the day as the path flattened out for another easy stretch. In the distance we could see the path gradually making its way up the side of the mountain.
The images of sharp, rugged peaks and rustic mountain huts sitting quietly among green meadows under big blue skies were beautiful. But that beauty was frequently disrupted by ugly power lines running across it. This was one of the elements on the TMB that we never really got used to. For us, the towers, power lines, ski lifts and views of cities within the valleys quickly broke the spell of being in the wilderness. In fact, it was seldom that we felt pulled away from civilization of the whole TMB.
The trail up to the summit on this day was like a giant ladder, with alternating stretches of flat trails followed by a good climb.
On the second ascent, it looked as if we would be reaching the pass at the end of the uphill section. Nope, this was the first of a few false summits we encountered on the day’s hike. For some reason on section of the trail we kept assuming we had arrived at the highest point without checking the map only to realize we were wrong..
Anh Vu and Anh Bi were waiting for us at the top of another incline, so once again we assumed that that was the pass. And for the fourth time that morning, we stood corrected. But what the hey, it was a good spot for people-watching and to have a snack break.
We saw a guy carry his bike over the boulders and rocks, having to dodge hikers coming from behind and coming towards him. With the endless stream of hikers on this popular trail, unless he was making his way to some way-back, off-the-beaten-path trail, it didn’t seem like biking on this trail was too fun at all. But maybe he knows something we don’t know.
Finally, we set our gaze upon the giant cairn (that looked like slices of meat on a skewer at an Argentinian restaurant) that marked the actual pass. The Col du Bonhomme was the highest point for the day.
We took another short break at the refuge close to the pass. The orange juice we bought reminded us of the neon green lemonade on Triglav that was always so refreshing. We refilled our water bottles at a wooden trough and began the slow descent into Les Chapieux.
About midway down the mountain, we saw on older gentleman who seemed as if he was suffering, resting on the side of the trail surrounded by his younger companions, most likely his family. Not long after we passed them, they quickly caught up to and passed us. The older gentleman was being assisted by what looked like his son and grandson. They were each propping him up with their shoulder or arm under his armpits, moving at a slow running pace. At one tight turn, they both lost hold of him, and he toppled forward, face first onto the path. It was scary to see that unfold before us. Later that day, we saw him sitting at the restaurant and inquired about his condition. We were glad he was fine. He was fatigued from overexertion. The altitude didn’t help either. The mountains can be a dangerous place. It’s always better to take it slow and be prepared when we’re on the mountains.
By the time we reached the gravel road, the sun was right overhead and beating down on us. We found refuge in the shade of the few tall trees that grew right on the trail.
Conveniently, our lodging for the night was right at the end of the trail. We were in a refuge but were fortunate enough to get our own private rooms. One of our rooms even had a private full restroom with showers.
Les Chapieux was a very small hamlet with a few lodging accommodations and restaurants. As we waited to check-in, we raided the convenient store for junk food and tried the famous regional cheese. Most of us were not too keen on it though.
Luckily, the Aussie couple, Sam and Meghan, walked by and informed us that we needed to book our shuttle to the trailhead for the next morning because there were limited seats and departure times. Phong and Lyle played around with the kiosk for a bit and were finally able to book tickets on one of the earlier shuttles leaving at 8 AM.
To kill some time before dinner, we walked around the small hamlet and found a WWII memorial commemorating the contributions of citizens from Les Chapieux.
TMB Day 4-Les Chapieux to Courmayeur
After a quick breakfast, we filed into the van that shuttled us down the dusty road for about 15 minutes and dropped us off at a parking lot in La Ville des Glaciers. From the name, we assumed we’d be seeing some glaciers on today’s hike. Sure enough, within minutes of walking, we were heading towards the glaciers with unobstructed views. There were no power lines in our way this morning.
Lyle said that we should be able to walk through this first section at a brisk pace since there wouldn't be too much to see or film until we got higher. Off the gate, he was wrong. The healthy patch of magenta fireweed was reason enough to stop.
We hadn’t walked but around the first bend in the road when the next shuttle arrived with Sam and Meghan speed walking right past us. They were so fast, it felt like they just wanted to get the trek over with instead of enjoying the nature around them. But like the biker, everyone has their own preferences and pace. They were runners. We like to be slow and take our time. Maybe a little too slow sometimes, especially when we’re shooting a video.
Starting off with a long gradual incline made us complacent. When the day’s first set of switchbacks approached, we were caught off-guard, not quite ready for the quick gain in elevation. We stopped a couple of times to take off layers and catch our breaths. At one stop to apply sunblock, a herd of goats rambled by with only a few responsible sheep dogs at their tail to protect them. Lyle got a warning bark from one of the dogs for getting too close and for staying too long.
As we got closer to the pass, the trail really opened up with beautiful expansive views back down the valley, Val des Glaciers surrounded by mountains on all sides.
Taking our time getting to the pass put us at the perfect spot for when another herd of sheep came through. The sheep dogs put on a show for us as they ran about collecting strays and corralling the whole herd forward. It was interesting to see how with just a command or two from the shepherd, the dogs eagerly and professionally performed their duties. Well, almost all of them. The youngest one was too eager and began the chase before the command was given and had to be recalled.
Col de la Siegne-France/Italy Border
On the way up the pass, we crossed paths with Susan and Lisa a few times and chatted with them a little bit. It was funny because they had heard Lyle call out to Sandy the day before about where to stand for a picture and thought my name was Sandy. They were interested in the video we were filming. Lyle got a few shots of them and was able to put them in the video a couple of times.
There were no mistakes about false summits and passes today. The pass, Col de la Siegne was very prominent with a gigantic rock marker in the middle. This was also the first time we saw Mont Blanc again since leaving Chamonix. The pass marked the boundary between France and Italy.
The pass was very pleasant when we were there. The day was sunny but not yet hot. There was a nice breeze, not too gusty nor cold. We spent a good amount of time soaking in the scenery up on top. Anh Vu and Anh Bi probably took a nap while waiting for us.
Crossing over to Italy, our destination for the day was the town of Courmayeur. To get there however, involved a steep descent into the Italian valley, Val Veny below. Of all the passes and views on the TMB, this was the most scenic, memorable and iconic.
Not far from the top, a herd of cows was grazing on the side of the mountain. One of them looked so awkward, different from the others. We figured it out. This bovine had the face of a pig! It was so weird looking and commanded our attention for a long time. By the time we resumed walking, we had lost sight of the rest of the group, a very common occurrence. Thank goodness everyone is so patient with our slow pace.
We were so distracted by the beautiful scenery, the cows and the flowers that we missed the variant up to the Balcony. But since we were able to see the Balcony trail from below, we figured it was pretty much the same view, just from further up. We thought the rest of the group would have taken the Balcony variant, but when we met up with them at the refugio, we found out that everyone had missed the turnoff.
Clouds were quickly rushing over the pass and starting to fill in the skies above when we found the perfect patch of flowers. So we waited. In about ten minutes, we caught a break in the clouds, unlike in Torres del Paine where we waited for over half an hour without catching a break and had to give up in the end.
Refuge Elisabetta, snuggled at the base of a glacier is one of the most scenic and popular resting spots on this section. Our group had found a table outside when Lyle and I arrived. After eating our lunch, we wanted the chocolate cake for dessert, but they were all out. Boo!
As we sat there, gray clouds almost completely filled in and blocked out the blue skies and sun. The weather did call for afternoon rain, we recalled. We decided it was best to start moving again since we still had many miles to go before getting to the bus stop.
Barely five minutes later, we started feeling the first drops of rain. They were big, fat drops, and so satisfying when they splatted on our skin. At first the rain was refreshing and welcomed. We thought we were heading away from it so a little bit was nice and cool. But even though we were walking away from the rainclouds, the winds were getting stronger and shooting raindrops sideways in our direction. At one point, the drops were flying so fast, they actually hurt when they landed on bare skin. We decided to put on rain covers for the backpacks, but it didn’t take long until we were beyond the raincloud’s territory.
The rest of the trail was flat. We walked along a lake with full reflection of the mountains beside it. The path took us along a river. At the confluence, the clear, warmer water from the lake merged with the murky, milky, colder glacial water. The division between the two types of water was very clear, almost like there was a physical barrier. Due to the difference in density, the two waters did not mix very easily.
We followed the dirt path until it turned into a paved road. On certain sections of the road, the downhill grade was so steep that it was easier to run than walk. The road wound through tall evergreens, and it felt like forever until we reached the gates at the beginning of the trail.
When we arrived at the bus stop, there were but a handful of people. Susan and Lisa were there. They had been there for quite a while and described the whole chaotic scene regarding the bus system to us. Basically, there wasn’t one. There were no lines, so when the bus arrived, people just pushed and shoved their way onto the bus. Susan and Lisa weren’t pushy people so they didn’t get on. At least they knew where the bus stopped and so they stood there assuming they’d be one of the first to get on the next bus. After waiting for another half hour, the next bus arrived, but it did not park in the same spot as the last one, so instead of being at the head of the line, once again, they were at the end and did not feel like pushing their way onto this bus either. Neither did we. Those on the bus were packed in like sardines. We can only imagine the ripe odor swirling around in there. Well, actually, Anh Vu didn’t need to imagine. He just had to recall his bus ride from Torres Del Paine back to Puerto Natales to relive that olfactory sensation.
So now, Susan and Lisa had been waiting for over an hour to get a ride into Courmayeur. They weren’t alone. A few other people they met at the bus stop had the same bad experience. One of them had a business card for a taxi service, but none of them had a phone with a call plan. Fortunately, Lyle’s phone did. So the ladies called and ordered two taxi vans for us. This end up being a much more pleasant way to get down the windy mountain and into town. We couldn’t say the same for Susan’s van. Their driver was impatient and reckless, which resulted in many last minute abrupt breaking and interesting maneuvering strategies. We had first row seats to that live show, being right behind them the whole time. This was the last time we crossed paths with Susan and Lisa. We did reach out to inquire about the rest of the tour. Unfortunately due to heavy rains that came the day after we finished, they had to adjust their route and took a shuttle back to Les Houches to complete their tour instead of walking that last section.
The taxi took us up through a narrow street with tourists walking all over. We thought it was weird but figured he knew what he was doing, and certainly enough, he got us to our hotel in good order. The receptionist told us that even though it was a walking street, if your hotel is in this area, you can drive in, but your license plate had to be registered with the hotel or else you’d get ticketed.
Lyle and I had a lovely view of the rooftops and mountaintops from the balcony of our room on the top floor of the Hotel Edelweiss.
The rain had made its way to Courmayeur as we drove in. That didn’t deter us from walking around town to find food. We didn’t know we had arrived on a major Catholic holiday weekend, The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, celebrated on August 15th. Most of the restaurants were either closed since it was still siesta time or they were all booked for the evening. The receptionist was able to call and make reservations for us at one of the few places she knew was open, a pizza place. Pizza…the first meal in Italy. Sounds perfect to us.
The pizza was not as good as we had hoped. The pie was soggy and the toppings were giant pieces that were hard to cut. The dessert was good, however.
TMB Day 5-Rest Day In Courmayeur
Knowing that our friends Max and Ayhan were in Europe at the same time, traveling around France and Italy in their own car, we gave them our itinerary pointing out our rest day in Courmayeur in the slim chance that they might be within the area and be able to meet up with us. Amazingly, they adjusted their schedule to come see us on our rest day.
That morning, we followed the parade through the main square to the church where it ended. Because mountaineering culture and history is very important in Courmayeur, the Mountaineering Guild, dressed up in old mountaineering uniforms brought up the rear end of the parade. We can’t imagine trekking or climbing up the mountains in the shoes and clothes that they had back then.
Max and Ayhan arrived just in time to see the band perform in the courtyard of our hotel. It was such a fun experience. There were snacks and drinks for everyone to enjoy and celebrate the holiday.
Ayhan is afraid of heights so what do we plan…Well first, he had to survive standing on our balcony with the thin, rickety railing for a picture with the band below. Next, we decided to take him to the top of Italy, riding in a rotating cable car up to the highest station in Italy. We were going back to Punta Hellbronner, but this time from Italy.
Once there, Max quickly found the lounge chairs on the sunny deck to recline in. We walked around and looked at the views. Once, the wind was so strong, it tried to steal our hats. On the top terrace, Max, Lyle and I engaged in identifying the faraway peaks, didn’t notice Ayhan had made his way back to the sunny deck below to collect all the warmth he could get.
We took the tram to the middle station, walked around a bit outside and found a cafe for a light lunch before heading back down. Max and Ayhan had to drive all the way back to Dijon that night and then to Paris the next morning to catch their flight back to the states. What a crazy coincidence…some would say, “It was positively Providential.”
That night, we had one of the best dinners. It was so simple, just a sampling of dishes from the local delicatessens in town. Everyone gathered on our balcony for our appetizing dinner to end our rest day. It was a productive rest day. We were even able to get some clothes laundered and ice creams in the bellies again.
Wandering around town, Sandy and Phong inquired about the shuttle service to the next starting point and found out that we needed tickets to get on. Being on top of their game as usual, they booked us the earliest available departure.