Pictures: Lyle Such

Writing: Thu Buu

Camera: Canon 5D MkIV

Mueller Hut Track-Day 1

The Mueller Hut Trek, our last tramp in NZ, was just a two day hike. Hike out day one, overnight at the hut, and hike back down the next day. It was short but steep. In less than 3.5 mi, we would be climbing over 3400 ft. We had driven all morning and didn’t get to Aoraki Mount Cook National Park until later in the afternoon. The first part of the climb was on well maintained staircases, 1964 steps to be exact, according to some previous hiker. It was hotter than we had imagined. Thank goodness we weren’t climbing these stairs at the full height of the sun nor with a full pack. On our descent the next day, we could see how the heat was taking a toll on many of the day hikers who weren’t prepared for the steep climb or the searing sun.

For most of the climb up, we had the same view looking down. It just became more spectacular as we climbed a little higher and saw it from different perspectives. How often we stopped just to take pictures of this same backdrop, I’m not even sure. It was an interesting view. Mueller Lake and Sealy Tarns resemble a liquid mixture of clay, mud and glue. The color is quite original. I don’t recall having ever seen a lake that looks so murky and grayish-green, yet so beautiful. I just learned a new word too. Tarn is a small steep-banked mountain lake or pool, according to Merriam-Webster. After this point, the trail followed a series of orange poles straight up the mountainside. No more easy stairs.

The scrambling was steep enough that poles became more of a nuisance. Sometimes, I had to use both hands to pull myself up onto the next boulder. As we climbed, with Anh Vu in front, Lyle hopping about, and me exerting the most effort, I started laughing so hard. We were what remained of the Fellowship of the Ring. Anh Vu, the Ranger Aragon scouting the trail of the uruk-hais who had taken Pippin and Merry. Lyle is Legolas, and of course, I’m Gimli the Dwarf clamboring from behind.

Up pass the steepest part, the mountain veers inward away from Sealy Tarns, and the sight in front of us was nothing short of spectacular! A creepy glacier crawling down the side of the mountain. A vast sea of scree and giant boulders stand in our way. Bleak skies and threatening clouds abound. Such perilousness awaits us, but our mission shall not be deterred! Bring on them nasty goblins and orcs! For the Hobbits!

Guess who was waiting for us on the deck of the hut? Finally, the infamous naughty alpine kea parrot of New Zealand!

We put on more warm layers and headed back out into the cold. We scrambled a little higher to get above the hut and try to find a somewhat protected perch to watch the sun set.

Inspired by the gourmet dinners hikers back on the Kepler track were cooking, we decided to pack veggies and mushrooms to go with our noodles. Noodles, such a good meal on a cold evening anywhere, even more so on a remote mountaintop.

The sleeping arrangements at Mueller Hut were not ideal, but better than camping. It consisted of two long bunk beds, each about 8 people wide. If one person moved, everyone felt it. Most people were so tired by that time, it wouldn’t even register.

On each of our hikes, I was the designated tripod carrier. Up until this hike, it had remained unused. Lyle and I stayed up late, sitting on the deck as the camera automatically clicked on a set interval, hoping for a decent timelapse. However, the moon was too bright, outshining the stars. Instead, Lyle was able to get some awesome night shots of the hut and glowing sunrise pictures with the tripod’s help.

Mueller Hut Track-Day 2

As always, when setting up a timelapse, it’s tricky deciding what to frame. At sunrise, do we frame the objects that will eventually be lit by the sun’s glow or do we aim at the horizon and capture the changing colors of the sky as the sun rises? We decided to look back at Mueller Hut and the mountain range surrounding it. The red of the hut really stood out nicely against the neutral colors. And the activities of the people around the hut added some nice movement.

We were quietly enjoying the early morning silence atop these big boulders when we heard the distinct humming of a drone. First it seemed as if it was from the other side of the peak behind us. Soon, it was directly on top of us. Our peace was shattered. The perpetrators were right under us controlling their drone. The Israeli traveler we were sharing the sunrise with suggested we throw rocks to try and bring the drone down. I think his former military brain was kicking in. It would have been fun target practice, but we decided to leave it alone.

Back at the visitor center, Lyle had asked if drones were permitted. Informed, we decided not to bring Crevit along. We did not want to be “those people” who would selfishly disregard others’ rights to peacefully enjoy a well earned hike with the nuisance and noise of an artificial flying aircraft just to get “that” coveted aerial view. We didn’t appreciate the intrusion.

The weather does make such a big difference in creating the mood for the hike. The morning was blue, beautiful and brightly-lit. Gone were the perceived dangers from yesterday’s uncertainties.

The steep climb down was rough on our knees, mostly mine. Even with the aid of my poles, I had to consciously alter my steps down so that I didn’t put too much pressure on one knee for too long before switching so the other knee could take the brunt of the pressure. Once we got back on the stairs, Anh Vu and Lyle just went ahead and waited for me in shady spots since there was really just one way back down and not a worry of getting lost.

These pictures make it look like we were the only ones on this trail, but quite the opposite was true. This is a popular day hike. Most hikers only go to the end of the stairs where there are a couple picnic tables, a little clear lake to frolick in and a clear view of the tarns and river before turning back. But even just that mile or so straight up can be challenging on a hot day, as it was on our way down. So many hikers asked us how much further, and for a few older and not physically equipped, we honestly told them it was best they turn around if they were already having a hard time at that point and weren’t carrying enough water.